Monday, October 26, 2009

 

The Joy of Living in Mexico’s Finest Wine Country

 

'Vino-Tourism' by Steve Dryden

 

Life in Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico can be rewarding, refreshing, and full of adventure on a daily basis. For example, just before writing this article I tasted a small sample of L.A. Cetto’s new (screw cap) Tempranillo, jumped on my off-road cycle and toured the neighborhood to mentally document all the changes, additions, improvements, new homes, cabanas, vineyards and wineries in my valley hideaway called Tierra Santa.

 

My off-road tour of the wine country was somewhat revealing, seeing all the changes occurring here over the last five years. I could have never imagined all the progress, population growth and wine industry expansion in a relative short time. Of course, we are talking in relative terms on Mexican time, but still this has been an amazing transformation from a simple and remote rural valley to a more user-friendly environment with added amenities, enhanced with a new sense of community pride and purpose.

 

And the one major factor in this equation, creating all the change, is this valley's emerging wine industry that has brought economic growth, hope, jobs and stability to our area.

 

People often ask me, “why of all the phenomenal places you have lived and worked did you choose Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California as your final resting place?" My most common reply is, “well I’m not dead yet, and how many times in life can you go back in time 100 years to a simpler life based on 'natural values' like peace, serenity and tranquility, gardening, farming, personal freedom and community networking.”

 

Of course I can hop on my motor scooter, head in any direction and within a few minutes discover good wine, homemade cheese, local olive oil, organic produce and superior poultry and beef products. The only occupational hazard here is that your arm gets tired from waving at all your friendly neighbors!

 

As well, the clear skies allow for superior grape growing, followed by evenings filled with stargazing as you explore your, or some friend's, experiment in creating artisan wine that pairs well with the free-range poultry on your grill or with the rib eye steak purchased from the local butcher. The Mediterranean-like weather allows for pleasant outdoor living and year-round activities that include wine tasting, wine tasting and wine tasting. And, if you don’t like wine, we have a school in designated driving to meet the growing demand.

 

One aspect that I love about living in the valley is the proximity to the seaport of Ensenada. If life wasn’t complete enough with all the wine, cheese, organic produce, fresh fruit and artisan olive oils, we are additional blessed with an abundance of fresh seafood from the harbor and surrounding ocean fishing grounds. And, when you’re in the mood for gourmet culinary wonders there are twenty restaurants in Ensenada that are creating world class local, national and international cuisine.

 

Insofar as Ensenada is a seaport community we have a diverse ethnic mix of population which opens the door to gain access to all of their cultural traditions and culinary expressions. For instance, it’s not uncommon to observe a Russian farmer cooking Spanish paella or to witness a Mexican producing Italian grapes and creating world class wines. Basically, this is a region where people from all-over-the-world can enjoy living the good life in a safe, secure and affordable region.

 

In fact, many people have noted that while observing the sunset in Valle de Guadalupe, after a day of tasting wine and sampling culinary delights, “that heaven can often be seen on the horizon.” Of course, one should note that this valley is named after one of the most sainted mothers in the world.

 

The amenities that have improved life in the valley the most for us lucky residents has been the 40% completion of the new Highway 3 project, as well as the paving of the secondary wine route from Francisco Zarco to El Tigre, allowing easier access to ten rural wineries and two B&B’s.

 

In addition, Rancho Mogor Badan provides locals and regionals with organic produce, artisan baked goods, gourmet pizza, homemade tapioca, crafted soups and a variety of other healthy delights. Three Hermanos market in San Antonio de las Minas offers an excellent selection of fresh poultry, meats, cheese, vegetables and basic necessities, thus eliminating the drive to Ensenada for “emergency fiesta supplies.”  We even have an artisan cheese outlet in our village, Los Globos, that brings in premium gourmet cheese from Ojos Negros to compliment the many dynamic wines being created in the valley.

 

Several wineries now open at 9 am, seven days a week. This gives us something to live for, and is a great option when entertaining family, loved ones, lovers and guests.

 

Vino-tourism continues to grow and expand as well. The most significant improvements have been the creation of more lodging options that reflect traditional Mexican values and pricing. For example, who would want to pay US$45 just for breakfast, or $5 for a cup of coffee in Mexico?

 

Thankfully we now have Hotel Plaza Fatima, with newly built rooms for about $50 night; Hacienda Guadalupe for deluxe lodging at about $149; and Rancho Malagon for a traditional Mexican style B&B on a 600 acre ranch, with reasonable local pricing and unsurpassed hospitality.

 

Rancho Malagon and I continue to host comprehensive and exciting wine tours for wine lovers seeking expertise, knowledge of local wines and wineries, history and culture, in a comfortable van – completely customized tours based on your taste preferences, and with more than reasonable pricing.

 

The newly paved and widened Highway 3, along with more winery signs, has made wine touring easier, although it should be known that highway construction continues halfway through the valley, making it somewhat challenging at times.

 

Living in Mexico’s premier wine country gives you the option of trying new and evolving wines on a regular basis. Whether you’re sampling from a glass, bottle or barrel, it is a remarkable and exciting time in the history of this emerging wine region.

 

Restaurante Hacienda (open daily) still has the most consistent quality of cuisine and professional service in the valley, backed by large portions of superior food with good prices. In the spring of 2010 Hacienda Guadalupe Hotel will open their 200 seat restaurant, thus giving locals and visitors another culinary option. Laja Restaurant continues to provide upscale gourmet delights for those with discriminating palates, and Casa Vieja now offers Argentine-style BBQ on weekends, along with a variety of home-brewed wines from their small family operation – and from backcountry moonshiners.

 

L.A. Cetto Winery, under the direction and guidance of Don Luis Cetto and Camillo Magoni, continues to provide Mexico with some of the best wines for the money. Their 2004 Nebbiolo ($150 pesos) recently won a double gold in San Francisco, and they have released a new 2008 Tempranillo ($130 pesos) that is very good. And wineries like Viñas Liceaga, Monte Xanic, Fuentes, Malagon, Vinisterra, Tres Mujeres – Three Women, JC Bravo, Bibayoff, and Pau Pijoan continue to raise the bar of excellence with their new and reserved vintages.

 

Actually, in all fairness, every wine producer in Mexico has evolved in a substantial manner over the last few years, I just don’t have the time and space to list them all. In reality, life and wine here in Valle de Guadalupe just keeps getting better, and better with time, much like an aged bottle of classic red wine.

 

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For a Baja California Wine Route map, click on MexiData.info "Links," and go to "Mexico Maps and Time Zones"

Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Valle de Guadalupe, in northwestern Baja California, where he guides individual and small group wine tours. He can be reached at sbdryden@hotmail.com. Visit his new blog at www.winefoodguide.com.