Monday, December 15, 2008

“Vino-Tourism” by Steve Dryden

The Mexican wine industry was originally created by our Spanish ancestors in the sixteenth century, when they planted the first vineyards in America right here in Mexico. From those early vineyards of Mission grapes, Jesuit missionaries sent vines and cuttings to Peru, Argentina and Chile. By 1701, the first hybrid cuttings of Vitis vinifera (European stock) were planted in Baja California at Mission San Javier, near Loredo Bay.

Later, in 1780 Franciscan Friar Junipero Serra sent cuttings and plants from the mission vineyards in San Diego to all the Alta California mission sites, reaching Sonoma by 1830.

In fact, these vineyards produced grapes of such high quality that Spain soon decided to uproot all the stock in order to protect Spain’s national wine industry. Thus, the wine industry in Baja California went dormant and didn’t revive itself until the late 1880’s, near Ensenada. And it wasn’t until the 1970’s and 80’s that several dynamic leaders got serious in the pursuit of creating premium wine in Baja California.

Recently I've discovered an important link between Mexican and Spanish wines, while researching an article about the first olive oil press in the Americas. That press was built by the Kumeyaay people, near San Diego's Old Town, under the direction of Junipero Serra. During that research project I also discovered the oldest wine press in the United States, given to San Diego by the people of Palma de Mallorca, in Spain, where Friar Serra was born. It was built in 1770, and is located near Presidio Park in San Diego.

Spain, Mexico and California, in reality, are forever connected as it was Spain, via Mexico and California, that started America’s wine industry.

Interestingly, Spain has a wine heritage that is over three thousand year old, going back to around 1100 B.C.  But that early wine industry was forced into dormancy by invading Islamic Moors from A.D. 711 to their defeat in 1492.

And like Mexico, the Spanish wine culture floundered until the 1960’s and 70’s, when new thinking and modernized winemaking techniques came about with visionary leadership. Basically both Spain and Mexico didn’t really get serious about creating premium wines until recently. Today, Spain and Mexico are emerging wine industries, both making waves upon the international wine scene.

Spain is experiencing phenomenal progress, and it now makes nearly as much wine as the world’s largest producers, France and Italy. And the wines are amazingly good, especially those from the Duero River Valley, the Ebro River Valley, Green Spain, the Meseta, the Mediterranean Coast, and Andalucia.

The Ebro River valley is home to the renowned Denominacion de Origens (DO) of Rioja, Cariñena, Navarra, Campo de Borja, Calatayud, Somontano, and Ribera del Jiloca. This region is going through a revolution of its own, and some great values can be found once you understand the wines and DO’s.

The DO of Navarra has great value wines, mostly Rosado, Garnacha, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The DO Rioja is located in the Ebro River Valley, and it is still the "benchmark of Spanish wine” with Tempranillo as “the king.” World Market in San Diego, the San Diego Wine Bank, and Cost Co in Mexico carry some Spanish wines from the Ebro River area – look for Garnacha de Fuego 2006, Borsao 2006, and Viña Borgia, all priced around US$10.00.

Spanish wine grown and made in the Duero River Valley are some of Spain’s best wines. The great regions are: Cigales, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, and Toro. Cigales is good for Tempranillo and Garnacha used for rosado wines. Ribera del Duero is known for premium Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec.

Rueda is the new capital for Spain’s white wines to include: Verdejo, Viura, Sauvignon Blanc and Palomino. The Verdejo grape is “delightful and textured, with citrus elements covering notes of melon, apple, and stone fruits.  It is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc or Viura.” Viura grapes are “the fat and friendly part of a Cava blend." Palomino (still found in Valle de Guadalupe) is the famous Sherry grape. “It can provide the underpinning of the lightest and freshest manzanilla or the richest and most exotic amontillado or oloroso.”

The Toro area is the new star among Spain's grape growing regions. It has become famous for Tempranillo wine that is "full-bodied, plush, of good structure, elegant, and powerful.”  A nice sample from Toro might be Tempranillos from Azul 2006, Finca Sobreño Crianza 2004, or Estancia Piedra Seleccion 2000.

I’ll be talking more about Spanish wines in 2009. As you might guess, these wines are coming of age and some remarkable deals can be found, but don’t wait too long! For those with a curious palate and a keen sense of adventure, try exploring the new wines from Spain – you’ll be delighted.

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Steve Dryden writes about wine, food, travel, Native Peoples, and history.  He lives in the Guadalupe Valley of Baja California, Mexico, where he guides private wine tours for individuals and small groups.  As well, he now books lodging in the valley. Mr. Dryden gives special thanks to "2008 Wines from Spain – Far from Ordinary – Wine Guide," for their assistance and information.