Monday, September 29, 2008
Finding
Gold in the Mexican Village of Francisco Zarco
'Vino-Tourism'
by Steve Dryden
Rancho
Malagon, or Viñedos Malagon, is a hidden jewel located in the village of Francisco Zarco, in the Valle de Guadalupe, Baja
California, Mexico. This family owned 400 acre ranch, vineyards, winery, and bed and breakfast gets a gold medal for hospitality,
first class service, romantic ambiance, hidden location, and for creating fantastic wine. In fact, one of their three premium
wines won gold this year in the 16th International Wine Competition in Ensenada, and their 2006 Reserva received 92 points
from Wine Spectator magazine.
Until
recently this amazing private estate has been a little known haven for selected friends and members of the Malagon family,
whose relatives have owned the property for generations. One would never have guessed that such a special ranch exists behind
the village of Francisco Zarco where lucky guests experience a stunning setting with valley and mountain views, an abundance
of natural beauty, blessed with a wealth of peace and tranquility.
The
ranch was originally a Russian homestead established in the early 1900’s by Molokan settlers. In 2000 Jose Luis Malagon
purchased the ranch from relatives, with the vision of creating premium wine crafted from old vine Grenache grapes planted
over fifty years ago on his property. Over the years, with the help of his wife, children and friends, the Malagon's have
created the perfect Baja California retreat and getaway complete with a hacienda-style compound featuring a family bar, dining
room with fireplace, and a four unit bed and breakfast complex.
The
ranch reflects the traditional values cherished by the Malagon family and showcases their respect for nature, conservation,
preservation of the land and the Baja California ranch lifestyle. And, somehow their wines seem to capture that same essence
via the expression of the old vine roots that are deeply woven into the native soil of the valley, transforming mature fruit
into rich, complex wine that speaks volumes about the strength and determination of the abandoned vines that waited patiently
for decades for someone to discover their palate pleasing treasures. Thankfully two local “vino desperados,” Nathan
Malagon and Jose Luis Durant, came to their rescue with lots of TLC, and the rest is now Baja California history in the making.
Nathan
Malagon, ranch manager, dedicated host and winemaker, is the son of Jose Luis Malagon. His enthusiasm and passion for every
aspect of the ranch operation is remarkable. He is among a handful of locals who fully understand and promote the old style
of traditional California hospitality. Nathan spent much of his time growing up on the ranch among family, friends and nature,
so when the opportunity presented itself he felt that living on the ranch in a natural setting with unlimited possibilities
was exactly what he had envisioned for himself.
Today
he has taken his vision to superb levels of fruition by creating premium wine in a bed and breakfast setting with world class
ambiance. Nathan came to the Valle de Guadalupe armed with skills in traditional hospitality, knowledge in nursery and landscape
technology, and experience in the food and wine industry gained by working at Wolfgang Puck's Cafe Express in Orange County.
The Austrian-born Puck is famous for restaurants like Spago, the Hollywood restaurant he opened in 1982, and other high-end
restaurants in San Francisco and Las Vegas. The Puck Express concept was originally designed for airports, college campuses
and amusement centers. The restaurants were centered on a large, open pizza oven, and also offered catering and takeout. Nathan
was exposed to the culinary arts and some of the world’s best wines while working with Puck.
One
of the first winemakers in the Valle de Guadalupe to explore the old vine Grenache grapes at Rancho Malagon was Jose Luis
Durant, a Chilean oenologist who became the winemaker for Pedro Domecq. Soon a relationship developed between Durant, the
Malagon family and the vineyards that continues to this day.
Jose
is the current winemaker and consultant for Viñedos Malagon. He came to México in the year 2000 to work at the Casa Pedro
Domecq vineyards and now owns his own wine company, Sinergi-VT. His natural talent for creating superb Mexican wine has made
him well known and much respected in the region. In addition to working for Viñedos Malagon, he works for local wineries Agrifolia
and Norte 32, and owns a partnership in the winery Vinos y Terruños, Icaro.
Nathan
and Durant have teamed-up to create some awesome wines. Nathan is so intensely focused on creating high quality wine that
he sleeps in the winery during fermentation so he can push down the caps himself and monitor every step of the process! And
Jose Luis Durant is one of Mexico’s top creative wine artisans.
These
two young and ambitious “vino desperados” have created three phenomenal wines. Their 2006 Equua is a magical blend
of 70% old vine Grenache and 30% Petite Sirah, aged in oak barrels for 12 months, and it retails for $350 pesos [US$32.50].
They’ll be releasing the 2007 Equua in about one month with a slightly
different blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Petite Sirah, retailing for $350 pesos. It’s
very distinct, rich, full of character, and of excellent quality. The 2007 Reserva is their most elegant wine, an outstanding
blend of 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% old vine Grenache, 14% Petite Sirah and 6% Merlot, aged in new French oak barrels for
12 months, retails for $650 pesos.
These
remarkable wines can be enjoyed in their charming tasting room, decorated with classic Spanish-style handmade furniture located
in a 110 year old reconstructed adobe Russian house. The tasting room consists of a small wine bar and staffed kitchen, two
separate rooms with sitting areas, as well as two separate patios where you can enjoy wine and cheese platter service. Tastings
are by appointment only, for a maximum of eight people per tasting. Van tours are available, guided by either Nathan himself
or a local wine writer for the Baja Times.
The
bed and breakfast facility is one of the most charming settings in the valley. Centered in a courtyard that features a cantina,
private kitchen and dining area with fireplace, it is most attractive and addictive. Visitors can cook their own meals in
the fully stocked kitchen or have a local chef cater to their gourmet culinary desires. A 36-inch plasma television with Direct
TV satellite and original handmade furniture compliment the dining area.
Four
deluxe room options are available to meet your specific needs. The suite named the “Grenache Suite” features one
queen bed, a large private bathroom and spacious living room area with sofa. This room also features a private patio
looking out into the beautiful private gardens. The “Green Room” includes one queen size bed, private bathroom
and balcony with a sitting area offering a majestic view of the mountain range. The “Blue Room” includes two full
size beds with one private bathroom and balcony with sitting area featuring a view of the mountain range. Many guests rent
the entire complex to host family, friends and clients.
Be forewarned
that one visit to this amazing B&B may be the beginning of a long term relationship with the ranch, the friendly Malagon
family and their incredible wines.
Visit their web site for details, directions and reservation information. The Malagon family is generous in sharing their traditional
family values along with their love of the valley. Come and explore their award-winning wine and discover the beauty and depth
of quality old vine Grenache wine and more!
With
the future of Mexican wines in the hands of young and ambitious “vino desperados” such as Nathan Malagon and Jose
Luis Durant – the possibilities are endless.
——————————
Steve Dryden, a MexiData.info guest columnist, writes
about wine, food, travel, Native Peoples, and history. He lives in the Guadalupe
Valley of Baja California, Mexico, where he guides private wine tours for individuals and small groups.
