Monday, August 25, 2008
Baja
California: Mexico’s Wine, Food and Fun Capital
'Vino-Tourism'
by Steve Dryden and Carlos Travesi Bosch
This year Ensenada’s culinary wizards and regional
winemakers have moved their art-form up several notches by providing local and regional guests with premium wine and gourmet
entrees that continue to please casual diners and those with the most sophisticated palates. Several events this summer in
downtown Ensenada and the Valle de Guadalupe have provided “the grand stage” for most of the restaurants and wineries
in the region.
Even top chefs from Mexico City and leading Mexican
resort areas are looking to Baja California to see what we are doing with wine and food. For example, at a recent gourmet
cheese facility grand opening, of La Cava de Marcelo (Cava de Quesos – Ramonetti) in Ojos Negros, thirty of the country’s
top chefs came to sample the possibilities of the newest culinary art form in our region.
We’re lucky and blessed in Ensenada because
of our close relationship with the wine country and winemakers, here we have an abundance of fresh local seafood, artisan
olive oils, gourmet breads and pastries, organic produce, mussel farms, premium coffee beans, high quality local cheese and
several culinary educational institutions. So, it shouldn’t be a real shock that we are now leading the way for Mexico’s
silent revolution in creating premium wine and world class gourmet cuisine.
One perfect example of the regional wine and food renaissance
taking place in Ensenada was witnessed and experienced by international food and wine lovers at an event sponsored by La Cofradia
under the direction of Jorge A. Guevara Escamilla and other visionary leaders in the food and wine culture. This is traditionally
“the event” held during the two week long Fiestas de la Vendimia each August, especially for those that can only
attend one event and want the best exposure to Mexico’s premium wine and gourmet cuisine. In addition, it’s held
at the scenic harbor side location at the Cruise Ship terminal in downtown Ensenada, which makes for a breathtaking setting
and provides refreshing, cool ocean breeze.
The event (Noche de Cofradia en Ensenada) paired-up
gourmet entrees with the best wines in the region. Prior to the event members of La Cofradia and regional restauranteurs attended
an event held at Cavas Valmar winery where a random drawing took place to match wineries with restaurants. Over twenty wineries
and restaurants took the challenge by having their chefs and winemakers work in pairing their best wine with the region's
top gourmet entrees. The results were phenomenal!
I don’t consider myself a food and wine expert,
but I have worked in three previously emerging wine industries in Napa Valley, Temecula and San Diego, whereas co-writer Carlos
Travesi has worked in the food and wine business most of his life. The trends in the development of the wine industry and
the following food and wine culture built upon that industry is always similar. Now, having lived, promoting wine and food
for several years in Valle de Guadalupe, I’ve witnessed a most impressive growth in the local and regional food and
wine culture.
Mexico and its internationally diverse citizens have
a unique and passionate way of expressing themselves in the arts, and the artisan food and wine movements are no exceptions
to that observation. For example, members of the culinary and wine industry in
this region from Ensenada, Rosarito Beach and Tijuana are becoming experts at matching local Mexican wines with gourmet cuisine.
Basically, we’re all networking, exchanging ideas and sharing samples, thus forming relationships that further advance
everyone involved, especially international gourmet food and wine lovers who benefit from all the hard work, determination
and dedication.
Over twenty of the best chefs and wineries from Baja
California presented food and wine pairing during this year’s friendly competition. Personally, I did not find one match
that wasn’t excellent in respect to matching a particular wine with a specific entree. It was amazing!
The overall (judged) winner was Bibayoff winery and
Casamar Seafood Restaurant. David and Abel Bibayoff presented their new Chenin Blanc and Colombard blend to rave reviews,
paired up with one of Casamar’s renowned seafood entrees. Second place went to Capricho’s Restaurant and a Baron
Balch’e blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. The third place winner was the amazing team of Saverios Restaurant
and La Farga’s dynamic 2005 Nebbiolo. The people’s choice award went to Asao Restaurant of Tecate and Shimul wine
by Alvaro Ptacnik Novoa.
One of the most outstanding wines I had the pleasure
to taste was a superb Petite Sirah from Tres Valles winery of San Antonio de las Minas. For my palate, it was the most stunning
wine at the event.
Food and wine events held during the La Vendimia Festival
in August also provided guests with an abundance of fine food and premium wine. Vinisterra winery eagerly displayed the final
completion of their state-of-the-art facility and tasting room with gourmet Veracruz-style cuisine provided by the dedicated
students of the Tijuana Culinary Arts Center. Viņa de Liceaga teamed up with
the famous Saverios Restaurant of Tijuana for a delightful country luncheon in the vineyard featuring their premium award-winning
wines.
Cavas Valmar winery in the port city of Ensenada held
three food and wine events this summer and has become one of the most popular winery venues for such events in the region.
The Fernando Martain family of Cavas Valmar winery work together as a dedicated, professional team to offer premium Chenin
Blanc, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon, often paired by the best chefs of Ensenada.
In addition, they have a charming winery and tasting room that’s perfect for special events, weddings and more.
Asao Restaurant in Tecate really belongs in Beverly
Hills, but we are lucky to have this world class venue right on the border in Tecate. They have a fantastic wine list and
culinary delights that are unmatched in the region.
So, remember next year to book tickets for the La Cofradia
event and discover one of the best events held during the Fiestas de la Vendimia. As usual, tickets went fast again this year
so plan ahead and start looking in July of 2009 for event tickets. Don’t worry, I’ll remind you before then, and
in the meantime check out for yourselves and discover why Ensenada is becoming the wine and food capital of Mexico.
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Steve Dryden writes about wine, food,
travel, Native Peoples, and history. He lives in the Guadalupe Valley of Baja
California, Mexico, where he guides private wine tours for individuals and small groups.
Carlos Travesi Bosch is chef and owner of Capricho’s Wine Bar and Gourmet Bistro, located directly across
from the original Hussong’s Cantina in Ensenada, Baja California.
