Monday, July 7, 2008

Artisan Wine and Gourmet Food in Baja California, Mexico

“Vino-Tourism” by Steve Dryden and Carlos Travesi Bosch

 

Rancho JC Bravo at El Porvenir, in the Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico, was this year’s site for Guateque 2008. This event features handcrafted, artisan wine created by amateurs from grapes purchased or grown in Mexico during 2007. Twenty-five winemakers proudly offered samples of their wine to over 300 eager wine and food lovers. Several local culinary artists provided gourmet entrees to fully compliment the amazing young wines. The enthusiasm and excitement was tremendous as folks moved about tasting tables under two large tents sampling some wonderful wine and superb cuisine. Live music awarded guests with a fun-filled afternoon, despite high temperatures and smoke from back country wildfires.

 

For those individuals lucky enough to attend this event, it’s kind of like scouting for future baseball players, hoping to spot “stars” before or as they move from the minor leagues to the majors. Lately though, most regional artisan winemakers are heading straight to the world series. If you haven’t noticed yet, this is a fantastic time to discover and enjoy the rapidly emerging Mexican wine culture.

 

It is quite amazing that so many people in the region are now creating artisan wines of such great diversity and high quality. Only a few years back we had seven wineries in the valley and less than a handful in Ensenada. Today we have over 25 official commercial wineries and hundreds of people from all walks of life creating wine at home, in their garages, at winemaking schools, or moonlighting at rural and large wineries. Thanks to dynamic and visionary leaders such as Hugo D’Acosta, who have taken time to establish educational programs for aspiring winemakers and consulting for those who want to advance to commercial levels, the region is booming and overflowing with excellent artisan, boutique and high volume wine production.

 

We did not encounter any wine of questionable quality. Every wine presented was of good, better or excellent quality. It does seem that with each new year and vintage, the wines just keep getting better and better overall. Furthermore, we discovered some great wines from the following winemakers or artisan wineries: Pau Pijoan, JC Bravo, Vinicola Pedraza, Albna-Silvestre, Canto Rodado-Fabiola Reneu, Vinicola Navegante, Philip Gregory, Three Women, and Varé.

 

There were so many excellent new wines at the event that one has to wonder what’s next for Mexican wine? It is remarkable that our wine culture is becoming such an amazing phenomena, not only with wine, but with gourmet cuisine, artisan olive oils, premium pastries, baked goods, gourmet coffee drinks and high quality fresh and aged cheese.

 

Artisan wine was paired up and matched with several gourmet culinary delights from this region for Guateque 2008.  Rancho Cortes offered their premium “Queso Añejo,” which is a delightful fresh and aged cheese from Valle de Guadalupe. Baja Gourmet Foods (Abel Bibayoff, Carlos Travesi and Iidefonso Dorame Miramontes) offered guests premium paella loaded with fresh shrimp. mussels, clams, chicken, beef, fresh vegetables and seasoned rice, cooked in extra virgin, gourmet, super-deluxe olive oil from Olivarera Baja Mar. Baked goods and gourmet dessert items were provided by Hogaza y Hogaza Bakery, which is one of the top bakeries in Ensenada.

 

This region is blessed with many talented chefs and culinary educational institutions that are complimenting the wine phenomena with gourmet culinary delights. According to chef Carlos Travesi Bosch, president of Ensenada’s Restaurant Association, “many of the best chefs throughout Mexico are now looking to Ensenada and the wine country region to see what trends we are setting with our 'gastronomical revolution' creating gourmet entrees, using organic products, fresh seafood, and premium Mexican wine.”

 

The Baja California wine culture, based around our wine country and the seaport of Ensenada, is gaining international attention as the new “food and wine capital” of Mexico. In addition, the wine culture of premium wine, gourmet food, music and art is further enhanced with the addition of the new Centro Estatal de las Artes (CEARTE) where internationally acclaimed art is elegantly fused and blended with Mexico’s best musical productions.

 

Towards the end of the Guateque event Hugo D’Acosta was seen walking through the area looking like a proud parent at a high school or college graduation celebration. Many of these aspiring winemakers have been reared under his guidance and direction. Hugo encourages creative winemaking techniques that has allowed for some amazing blends, combinations and innovative wines. Mexican artists from many diverse backgrounds have always expressed themselves in passionate and brilliant ways, and it looks like artisan winemakers are continuing in that tradition.

 

More summer wine culture events will be taking place soon throughout the region. In anticipation of high temperatures that usually come with the annual Fiestas de la Vendimia in the Valle de Guadalupe during the first two weeks of August, we’ve put together some hints to keep you safe, healthy and happy.

 

Tip #1: How to survive wine drinking during the hot, summer heat?

 

Answer: Hydrate, hydrate, and hydrate!

 

As well, pace yourself as high heat during the summer months can make drinking alcohol somewhat challenging – if not dangerous. A full stomach of gourmet food gives wine consumption a solid base to work with. Never drink on an empty stomach and try not to mix other types of alcohol-based drinks with wine.

 

Many of the summer wine events last for several hours in the heat of the day so drink slowly and take breaks by supplementing your beverage intake with cool bottled water to help you through the heat. One local trick (for those who want to enjoy the entire event to the fullest) is to drink one or two glasses of wine, then one glass of bottled water, followed by an iced-mocha coffee drink. This jump-starts and revives your system, and gets you up and going for future encounters. We call this tactic CSM, or the “Cetto Survival Method,” as Don Luis Cetto’s concerts often last twelve hours and you really don’t want to miss any of the world class events.

 

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Steve Dryden, a MexiData.info guest columnist, writes about wine, food, travel, Native Peoples, and history.  He lives in the Guadalupe Valley of Baja California, Mexico, where he guides private wine tours for individuals and small groups.  Carlos Travesi Bosch is chef and owner of Capricho’s Wine Bar and Gourmet Cafe, located directly across from the original Hussong’s Cantina in Ensenada.